Lemaire Men’s Spring 2023 – WWD

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This was a refreshing presentation that allowed guests to drift from tableau to tableau, gazing at models engaged in everyday life: a mother on a bench stroking her young daughter’s hair; a young woman engrossed in a book, and a couple, both dressed in trenchcoats with textured surfaces, deep in conversation at a café table.

Paris is buzzing again, people are socializing and, earlier in the week, there was a banging, city-wide Fête de la Musique, with people drinking and dancing in the streets. So why not opt for an easy, intimate format like this one? It was possible to zoom in on the clothes, touch them and watch how they moved.

The collection, designed by Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran, was easy and breezy, packed with cotton shirting fabrics, lots of layers, generous proportions and fun details. Cotton trouser hems were styled to resemble shirt cuffs, while dresses wrapped and folded around the body with buttons popping up in unexpected places, at the shoulders or on the side of the torso.

Other trousers were as comforting as pajama bottoms — some had thick elasticated waists, while others had drawstrings around the ankle: the model wearing the latter pretended to be asleep on a long bench.

The prints were extra special: Bright and cheery, they were made by the Papua New Guinean living artist Noviadi Angkasapura. The pen drawings were fresh and even changed shape depending on whether a waist was cinched, or how the model moved. The naive drawings spilled over all sorts of clothing — skirts, shirts, trousers, and even on the dress worn by the little girl lounging in her mother’s lap.

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