Marcelo Burlon County of Milan Men’s Fall 2023 – WWD


Marcelo Burlon marked his brand’s 10th anniversary last year with a festive show that celebrated and restated his creative link with his community.

Now six months apart, he has settled on the decision to mount a runway show just once a year but that community-driven bent transitioned easily into his fall collection, presented via a look book release.

The creative and DJ maverick worked his usual penchant for “mashing up different cultures, building a clash of the two” for the post-streetwear era, as he phrased it in a phone interview from Patagonia.

Look book imagery opens on a guy in a white T-shirt, Klein blue shearling jacket, loose denim pants, sneakers and thick oval-shaped sunglasses, his hair dyed in pink.

He read Kurt Cobain in his best gender-bending attitude, although Burlon was inspired by Chicano people and Rastafari acid rockers from the ‘70s. “The former make up the frame, the latter are [the pigments] coloring it,” he said.

He nodded to their swagger rather than their specific wardrobes, for his are never literal references. Corduroy suits with zippered jackets, patchwork denim ensembles with cargo pants and denim suits with kimono-style blazers mingled with shimmering tailored options covered in psychedelia-appropriate swirls — some inspired by Mark Rothko and Piet Mondrian — and the brand’s signature feather prints.

At 10 years old, one expects the brand that has made a fortune out of printed T-shirts to have grown up.

Burlon did just that: In toying with proportions and updating menswear staples with baggy bottoms and loose tops, he conveyed a distinctive look regardless of prints and the brand’s signature blue.

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