Capital Region USA’s picturesque small towns were the America I’d always dreamed of

WALKING through quintessentially American streets in the pitch black, surrounded by stunning wood-fronted houses, we were hit by the lovely sea air and the haunting sound of a train rolling along the tracks.

It felt like we were on the set of a film, taking place sometime during the late 80s, possibly directed by John Hughes; a place completely alien to anything I have ever experienced.

8

8

This feeling only grew stronger as we reached our hotel, the stunning Spencer Silver Mansion, a fantastic bed and breakfast in Havre De Grace, Maryland.

A piece of warm and inviting Americana that even Stephen King would find hard to twist into something terrifying.

Thankfully, we didn’t have a brilliant horror writer plotting our stay, but rather the delightful and gracious hostess Carol, who made us feel like part of her family with her welcoming and friendly nature.

The Spencer Silver Mansion is luxurious, with gorgeous antique furnishings in rooms filled with character, leaving me and my partner Katie feeling pampered.

Touching down in America’s capital, I wasn’t sure what to expect. I’ve gotten a pretty strong impression of the US through years of watching their telly shows but had never visited.

We’d flown in Washington DC, via Dublin, with Aer Lingus on a visit to Capital Region USA – which takes in Washington DC, Maryland and Virginia.

We drove towards our first stop of Maryland as the late autumn dusk faded into darkness,  with no idea what was waiting for us at our destination. Would it be more Sunnydale or Stars Hollow.

Pulling into the gorgeous little city of Have De Grace, found where the Susquehanna River meets Chesapeake Bay, we both decided we’d arrived in the America we’d always dreamed of.

Havre de Grace’s charming first impression continued through the following days we spent there. A city filled with such history and character, it’s easy to see how it almost ended up the nation’s capital way back in 1799, losing out to DC by just one vote!

Filled with fantastic boutiques, cafes, bars and specialist stores like Joe Retro and Washington Street Books & Music, we spent hours strolling around the streets and taking in as many stores as we could find.

As a huge vinyl fan I had to head to Zodiac Records and REB Records in nearby Bel Air. They had an excellent selection of LPs that are ridiculously difficult to get your hands on in the UK.

The sense of beauty and history perviates the entire city and the surrounding area. Ladew Gardens’ stunning topiary and the historic village of Jerusalem Mill made for gorgeous and fascinating trips, while Concord Point lighthouse and the bay area made for a beautiful sight just a short walk from our B&B.

It would be a crime not to mention all the brilliant eateries, too. Whether it was chicken tenders the size of my head from MacGregor’s restaurant, the delicious mussels from nearby Pairings bistro or the unmissable crab cakes from Creole de Graw (something anyone from Maryland would chase you down to make sure you tried while you were there).

There wasn’t a moment that went by where we felt hungry or underfed.

As sad as we were to leave Havre de Grace and the lovely people we had met there we had more of America’s Capital Region to discover and it was time to move on.

Our next destination, although just a few hours’ drive away, felt worlds apart from the coastal atmosphere we’d gotten used to.

Just a short hop up the interstate and beltway, we made our way back around the edge of Washington DC and up into rural Virginia, to the tiny town of Clifton.

Feeling much more country, the quaint locale featured some churches, lovely boutiques, a railroad featuring a historic locomotive and a spectacular old-fashioned general store.

We took in the atmosphere and chatted with some lovely locals, including a Frank Sinatra impersonator in the bar of Trummer’s, a sensational bistro where we had dinner.

We quickly realised that the food alone was worth the drive across two states. The BBQ bone marrow with fresh focaccia and apricot jam was a highlight, alongside the divine dry-aged duck breast and  duck fat roast potatoes.

Thoroughly stuffed, we headed for the slightly more modern-feeling town of Culpeper, Virginia, situated in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains – yup those iconic hills made famous by many a song, including by comic duo Laurel and Hardy.

We booked into Suites @ 249, a boutique hotel nestled in the heart of Culpeper’s historic district, where our suite was bright, comfortable and just what we needed after an unforgettable day.

Culpeper is another Capital Region town filled  with fantastic boutiques, cafes, restaurants and bars, which we took great pleasure in exploring.

Virginia is known for its wineries, and the nearby Old House vineyard and slightly further out Boxwood didn’t disappoint. The former is a trifecta winery, distiller and brewery with stunning lakeside views and a traditional Irish taproom.

Boxwood, on the other hand, concentrates on making wine, and does so exceptionally well. The stunning cave, a cool circular room away from the Virgina heat that’s used to store wine barrels, made for a spectacular and romantic place to enjoy a tasting, and converted both of us into huge wine fans!

Anyone looking for a very traditional country experience of autumnal Americana will also enjoy a visit to nearby Roundhill Farm. With Hayrides, a corn maze, and an impressive pumpkin patch, it made for a very memorable fall afternoon, perfect for all the family.

For dinner, we visited Piedmont Steakhouse, which was deservedly voted the best steakhouse in Virginia last year.

An incredible ribeye and staff who made us feel exceptionally well looked after make for a must-visit restaurant for anyone who appreciates a good steak and even better service.

Moving on from Culpeper and driving into the sprawling metropolis of Washington DC felt like a daunting task to begin with.

Having gotten used to the small-town charm, it was a strange experience reacquainting ourselves with a city this massive.

But we had the most amazing time. We had a blast exploring National Air and Space and Spy Museums, as well as doing all the normal touristy stuff and of course finding yet another amazing record shop, Joint Custody Records.

As much as we loved DC, nothing could quite stand up to the amazing small towns of the Capital Region and the people who live there.

We know where we’ll be heading on our next visit Stateside – those small towns and cities, with their incredible people, places, and hospitality we didn’t get the chance to explore throughout America’s Capital Region on this trip.

8

8

8

8

8