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In the realm of high jewellery, few artists manage to blend the line between wearable pieces and museum-calibre jewels with the same visionary prowess of Cindy Chao. Commemorating two decades of her eponymous brand, CINDY CHAO The Art Jewel, she unveils her breathtaking 20th Anniversary Collection in Hong Kong at a private exhibition in her art jewel showroom from May 3rd to 14th.
The 20th Anniversary Collection showcases craftsmanship excellence
For two decades, Chao has honed her craft, pushing the boundaries of what is possible in the realm of art jewels. Her relentless pursuit of perfection has led to remarkable breakthroughs, elevating her creations to new heights. Through the innovative use of unconventional materials and colour combinations, Chao, the granddaughter of an architect and daughter of a sculptor, deftly manipulates light and shadow, creating an enthralling sense of three-dimensionality that captivates the beholder.
The 20th Anniversary Collection showcases the distinctive aesthetics and advanced craftsmanship accumulated over her career. She chose titanium as her canvas and intricately sculpted brooches that narrate the essence of her creative journey.
In an impressive display of artistic collaboration and meticulous selection of gemstones, Chao worked with 12 master craftsmen in Europe, embarking on a quest for perfection.
A Journey through nature with signature motifs
Inspired by nature and the cherished motifs of her past works, the 20th Anniversary Collection captures the cyclical rhythm of life, with iconic representations such as the Four Seasons and the Dragonfly playing key roles. The inclusion of leaf and dragonfly brooches in the collection evokes the vibrant energy and ethereal beauty of nature while fulfilling Chao’s long-held aspiration of presenting a comprehensive brooch exhibition.
The Leaf Brooch illuminates nature
Among the marquee pieces of the Collection is her series of sculptural and organic Leaf Brooches. The selection of foliage is no accident; it is as deliberate as nature’s intent. Each leaf reaches for the sun, depicted through the brooch’s refined lines and meticulously crafted structures. Chao’s skill in encapsulating different stages of foliage via exceptional spatial control and sculpting skills meticulously presented through an exquisite display of creases, graduated shades of light and shadow, and smooth colour transitions showcase the fleeting essence of life.
The Four Seasons Collection, particularly highlighted by the “Winter Branch Necklace and Bangle” at Christie’s New York auction in 2007, propelled Chao to global recognition. Subsequently, the “Winter Leaves Necklace” debuted at the 2016 Biennale des Antiquaires in Paris and clinched the “Masterpiece Highlight” award at the 2019 Masterpiece Fair London. Celebrated for encapsulating Chao’s original vision and creative essence, this collection has, over the past two decades, become highly coveted among collectors and marks significant milestones for the brand.
The metamorphic dragonfly
The 20th Anniversary Collection unveils Chao’s continuous journey of transformation, where the enchanting dragonflies are not just adornments but deeply symbolise her personal and artistic evolution. Echoing the profound metamorphosis and self-transcendence signified by the brand’s highly celebrated Annual Butterfly Brooches, which have already been acclaimed as museum pieces, the dragonfly signifies her persistence and courage throughout her artistic journey.
Despite their seemingly delicate exterior, dragonflies are marvels of nature, capable of soaring at speeds between 50km and 100km per hour. Chao masterfully captured this exquisite balance of fragility and might, showcasing the dragonfly as a symbol of powerful emanation from the core to the edges of its ethereal wings.
These Dragonfly brooches are masterpieces of colour and light, evoking Claude Monet’s Impressionist palette. They revel in a spectrum of light that gracefully transitions from deep violet to indigo, cascading through blues and greens and bursting into yellows, oranges, and reds, with touches of white. This Impressionist-inspired approach conjures an almost magical effect reminiscent of sunlight filtering through the veiled layers of a vibrant forest canopy.
The bodies and wings of these whimsical creatures were expertly crafted from a harmonious blend of materials – lightweight titanium and lustrous ox horn to enhance the grace and fluidity inherent in these delicate creatures’ flight.
The artisanal journey
The challenge of balancing aesthetic grace with engineering precision has been a hallmark of Chao’s work. Her pioneering use of diverse materials, from ox horn and wood to light-activated resin and cold enamel, illustrates her commitment to exploring new horizons. Yet, it is perhaps her revolutionary titanium technique and her meticulous wax sculpting process that truly set her apart, enabling the creation of light yet structurally complex pieces that have garnered international acclaim.
Legacy in the making
Indeed, Chao’s influence extends beyond the confines of the jewellery industry. Her much sought-after collectables have earned her spots in the permanent collections of the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris and the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History in Washington, D.C., cementing her status as an artist of global renown.
In 2021, Chao was awarded the prestigious Chevalier dans l’Ordre des Arts et Lettres by the French government for her exceptional artistic contributions to the transmission and innovation of traditional French jewellery craftsmanship. She further cemented her connection with France by hosting a Paris workshop on “Cire Perdue”, a wax sculpting technique she is renowned for, in February 2024. There, she led 28 students from the Haute École de Joaillerie, guiding them to create a magnificent sculpture showcased at the Louvre Museum’s Campus Louvre event.
The Hong Kong exhibition offers a unique chance to witness the artistry and virtuosity that defines Chao’s work. Each piece in the 20th Anniversary Collection holds profound significance, bridging the past and future with rich connotations and becoming the future heirlooms for the visionaries who are fortunate enough to collect one of these pieces. Reflecting the artist’s inner philosophies, it embodies innovation, resilience, and the relentless pursuit of beauty.