Walking around central Prague is like walking through a museum; almost every building dates back several centuries, with many decorated with paintings and ornate details.
The Vltava River threads through Prague, which dates from the ninth century and tops many lists as one of Europe’s most beautiful cities.
The city grew around Prague Castle, set high on a hill on the western side of the Vltava, and by the 11th century had spread across the river. The beautiful Old Town Square has been Prague’s principal public square since the 12th century.
Not surprisingly, the historic centre of Prague, its architectural splendour ranging from the Romanesque, gothic, baroque, rococo, classical and neoclassical to art nouveau periods, is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
On my first visit to Prague I gasped at the sheer artistry of the Old Town Square and the gothic buildings and steeples surrounding it, including the famous Astronomical Clock, known as the Orloj, at the Old Town Hall, which has chimed since 1410.
First-time visitors to Prague may consider a local tour to get to know your way around and to immerse yourself in the city’s long and turbulent history.
Although ancient, this bustling city is the capital of one of Europe’s youngest states, the Czech Republic having come into existence in 1993. Previously it had formed the western part of Czechoslovakia, a country created in 1918.
While public transport is very good, with a well-integrated metro, tram and bus system, the best way to explore popular areas such as the Old Town and the Castle District, called Hradcany, is to take your time and walk, because there is so much to see.
Old Town Square was once a vast market, and the streets around it grew haphazardly, with many hidden nooks and crannies. Winding cobblestone streets feature quaint shops, cafes, restaurants, bars, churches and buildings with 600-year-old doors well off the main tourist trails.
Nearby is the enormous Wenceslas Square, which overlooks Nove Mesto (New Town), stretching from riverfront to riverfront around the Old Town. Although it’s “new”, Nove Mesto was founded in 1348.
Wenceslas Square was once the centre of a medieval horse market, and now features bars, shops, pubs, cinemas, hotels and the National Museum, and in December it becomes the main centre for Prague’s famous Christmas markets.
But history is never far away in Prague: a 1968 attempt to introduce liberal reforms in Czechoslovakia, known as the Prague Spring, was met with an invasion of Soviet-led troops, with tanks rolling into the city, including Wenceslas Square, and the Iron Curtain remained for another two decades.
It’s difficult to believe that this classy city, with its pockets of upmarket boulevards such as Parizska Avenue, thick with European designer brands, was under communist control for 41 years, from 1948 to 1989.
Prague is famous for classical music, and many of the city’s stately churches, cathedrals and concert halls are venues for concerts and recitals.
Street musicians play different styles from classical to jazz, and you see them all around central Prague.
Several bridges span the Vltava River, the most famous being the grand Charles Bridge, built in 1357 and bedecked with the statues of 30 saints.
The bridge, which crosses into Mala Strana, is closed to traffic, allowing pedestrians to wander across while buskers sing and play and artists sell their wares.
Just over the bridge, a few streets to the right, is the Franz Kafka Museum, a must-visit on the itinerary of any lover of literature.
Mala Strana, also known as Lesser Town, is one of Prague’s oldest districts. Founded in 1257, it’s a place of more hidden streets and cobblestone squares lined with wonderful buildings — several palaces, the museums of modern music and modern art, and many restaurants and bars.
An interesting place for a pitstop and a homemade Czech beer is U Krale Brabantskeho, Prague’s oldest pub, dating back to 1375.
Mala Strana is also home to the green dome and bell tower of Saint Nicholas Church, where both Johann Bach and Wolfgang Mozart held concerts amid the baroque splendour.
The quaint and ancient district around Prague Castle is called Hradcany, where the city was founded. While almost always busy with tourists, there are some peaceful nooks and picturesque lookouts.
Sprawling Prague Castle, established around 880, is the city’s most popular attraction. Within its walls lie historical buildings with some 2000 rooms, several churches, museums, galleries and the Golden Lane, a street of small houses originally built for royal alchemists, where Franz Kafka lived from 1916 to 1917.
The castle, the world’s largest ancient castle complex, according to the Guinness Book of Records, has always been home to Czech monarchs, and remains the Czech seat of power — complete with a changing of the guard on the hour.
The centrepiece of the castle is Saint Vitus Cathedral, a majestic gothic structure — the main tower soars up 100m — built from 1344.
The cathedral took almost 600 years to build, and was finally completed in 1929. Its amazing interior is home to Saint Wenceslas Chapel, the crypt where Czech kings are buried, and the Crown Chamber, where the crown jewels are kept.
Try to visit St Vitus on a sunny day to fully experience the simply breathtaking stained-glass windows that flood the interior of the enormous cathedral, which were created by 20th-century Czech artists.
Later, climb the 287 steps of the cathedral’s Great South Tower and enjoy expansive views across of this fascinating city.
fact file
+ Prague City Tourism, situated at the Old Town Hall, list official guides for city tours and a wide range of other information about Prague at praguecitytourism.cz
+ Prague City Tourism’s tourist information centres are also located at Prague Castle, Havel Airport and several other venues.
+ For more information on travelling in the Czech Republic go to visitczechia.com.
Stay
+ Prague has accommodation galore, from five-star luxury to budget hotels, apartments, pensions and hostels — the choice is endless. A few favourites include:
Strahov Monastery Situated in the peaceful garden of the still-operating Strahov Monastery, this charming hotel is nice and quiet, has comfy rooms and views across Mala Strana, Vltava River and Old Town, and is close to Prague Castle. Around $245 double, breakfast included. hotelmonastery.cz
Art Deco Imperial Fans of art deco will appreciate this charming hotel, close to the Old Town and Wenceslas Square. The Imperial features a sweeping marble staircase, carved wooden panels, mosaics and handpainted tiles throughout its elegant interior. Doubles from around $340. hotel-imperial.cz
The Mozart Hotel Close to Charles Bridge, this splendid hotel was formerly the Pachtuv Palace, dating from 1628. Mozart used to stay here, and you can slumber in his room (the Mozart Suite). Ornately decorated rooms feature frescos and there’s vaulted ceilings and antique furnishings; it’s just wonderful for a special treat. Doubles from around $450. themozart.com
Medvidku Brewery Hotel This historic hotel at the southern end of the Old Town has a restaurant dating back to 1466, and a microbrewery serving traditional Czech cuisine and local beer. You can stay in historic rooms with wooden beams or modern rooms. Doubles from around $200. umedvidku.cz/en/brewery-hotel