Albert Kriemler’s superpower is his superb taste in fabrics: He is forever hunting for the perfect ones to bring a modern touch to his discreet, luxurious fashions.
His peerless fall collection unfurled as monochromatic outfits, making it easier to appreciate the fluffy, alpaca-like texture to his “cloud” cashmere sweaters; the crisp lines of his shift dresses in double-face cotton gabardine, and the dreamy drift of his caftan gowns in the same silk georgette he’s been using since he was 22 years old.
“The fabric plays a major role in creating clothes in my quality,” he said during a showroom preview, showing off his rainproof silk coats, sturdy silk gazar utility shirts and plongé leather blazers.
Kriemler’s show venue on Sunday was the recently shuttered C&A department store on Rue de Rivoli, its escalators no longer running and the building stripped back to raw concrete. The rough setting seemed to magnify the polish of his outfits, giving a sporty elan here and there with shearling baseball caps or hoods.
In a fashion season heavy on wearable clothes, and lots of black, Kriemler selected more novel dark colors: chocolate brown, kale green, dark olive and charcoal.
Then he went all out for his finale looks, printed with the photograms of Swiss artist Katalin Deér, which he discovered at Art Basel, mesmerized by the gradient greens, purples and caramels she achieved by placing a glass tube or crinkled paper in her developing tray.
Kriemler wrapped cement columns in digital screens that changed colors and patterns to match what the models were wearing, adding a nifty digital touch to his very analogue fashion world.
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